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IRA FLATOW, HOST:
This is SCIENCE FRIDAY; I’m Ira Flatow. Chefs are like, a tiny bit like golfers: They’re always looking for tips to urge their game. So as we ready for a final large celebration of 2012 or a initial one of 2013, we have some gastronomical tips to urge your cooking and baking skills and a reasons behind since they indeed work.
What’s a pretence to creation a ideal cake dough? We have a answer to that, and we consider it’s going to warn you. How do we ready an egg yet branch all a prohibited H2O into a swirly disaster of egg whites? We’re going to learn we how to do that, too. It all boils down to this: If we wish to clear a secrets of good cooking, we have to know a science.
That’s a thought behind a newest cookbook from America’s Test Kitchen, “The Science of Good Cooking.” It’s unequivocally a good cookbook to have in your arsenal since it meticulously explains what works, what doesn’t and why. And my subsequent guest is here to give us a glance of some of a Test Kitchen’s some-more startling finds.
JACK BISHOP: Jack Bishop is a ready and expel member on a cooking shows “America’s Test Kitchen” and “Cook’s Country.” He is a editorial executive during America’s Test Kitchen and contributed to a show’s newest cookbook, “The Science of Good Cooking,” and he joins us here. We’re cooking in a New York studio. Welcome to SCIENCE FRIDAY, Jack.
Hi Ira, good to be here.
FLATOW: We are surrounded by cooking stuff.
BISHOP: we know, we don’t unequivocally – we know, a are wires and all a radio things with cooking things. Let’s wish it goes well.
FLATOW: Well, let’s get right to a initial thing. We have a pot of, a simmering pot of H2O here. Well, it’s not indeed a pot, is it?
BISHOP: It’s a skillet. So we am going to re-teach we how to ready and egg, and you’re going to be successful.
FLATOW: In a – I’ve never finished it in a skillet. Usually we take a large pot of water, and that’s wrong, you’re saying.
BISHOP: You’re – a large problem with a saucepan, if you’re doing a slight pot, it’s a prolonged approach down for a egg to dump into a pot. A lot of people moment it right on a side of a saucepan, and afterwards it falls apart. we mean, a plea when you’re poaching an egg is to keep a white to approximate a yolk, so we finish adult with a set white and a tawny yolk.
FLATOW: All right.
BISHOP: The skillet creates it many easier. So I’ve got prohibited H2O in a 12-inch skillet. You can use a smaller skillet if you’d like. And we – a pretence here is we’re going to kindly awaken a eggs in. So I’ve got dual teacups, one in any hand. They have tiny handles on them that concede me to get tighten to a water, and I’ve got dual eggs burst into each, and I’m usually going to spin them ever so kindly into a skillet.
And I’m going to supplement a tiny bit of vinegar. The pH is going to help…
FLATOW: Ah, a astringency is going to help.
BISHOP: And a tiny salt unequivocally usually for flavor, and I’m going to spin off a heat. The other large mistake people make is they boil, and a violent H2O will means a eggs to mangle apart.
FLATOW: You don’t wish to boil it.
BISHOP: And now I’m going to spin my timer on. And so by regulating residual heat, we are arrange of – no churning of a water, so you’re not going to blow detached a eggs. And we also get a unequivocally unchanging outcome because, we know, if you’ve got a unequivocally absolute cooktop, it can be going many arrange of faster entrance behind to a boil, and we’re fundamentally usually doing it with residual heat.
If we were doing it on a genuine cooktop, we’re on a tiny initiation burner, we competence even slip it off a burner onto a cold burner. We don’t have a cold burner, so we’re going to wish this initiation burner cools down.
FLATOW: And a vinegar gel a egg whites, is that – a poison does that?
BISHOP: We’re obscure a pH of a water, and that helps a proteins in a white to arrange of spread some-more fast and bond together and hopefully strengthen a tawny yolk.
FLATOW: Could we use lemon extract instead?
BISHOP: You could use lemon juice. we usually use strong white vinegar. You don’t wish to use a colored vinegar, like balsamic would give we simply kaleidoscopic whites, that competence not be that attractive. But, we know, a vinegar will give a tiny bit of deteriorate to a eggs, change a tiny of a brilliance to a eggs, that is a good thing. So we like that.
FLATOW: Well, while we’re watchful for a eggs to cook, let’s speak a tiny bit about some-more in your book. What is a tip – we heard, we review a tip to a ideal cake crust, and it’s something we would have never imagined. Tell us what that is.
BISHOP: You know, cake mix seems like it should be simple. It’s unequivocally usually 4 or 5 ingredients. There’s flour, salt, a tiny bit of sugar, fat and ice water. The problem is that many recipes are engineered to use a smallest volume of ice water, and a speculation is that when a H2O is churned with a flour, we are activating a glutens, and you’re building this arrange of strand of protein network, that is good if you’re creation bread. It’s what gives bread good chew.
But in cake dough, it will make it sincerely tough, and so we use as tiny H2O as probable in sequence to usually get a flour to arrange of reason together with a fat. The problem is many recipes don’t use enough, and so we go to hurl out a dough, and it’s cracking, it’s unequivocally formidable to manage, and many cooks finish adult adding some-more H2O than a recipe says.
A customary recipe for a double-crust cake will call for 5 or 6 tablespoons of water, yet it’s unequivocally not utterly enough. So we said: What is soppy that could give us some-more dampness so that we could hydrate a mix and make it easier to hurl out with reduction enormous yet would not form gluten? And it turns out that ethanol does not form gluten when it’s churned with flour.
And so we transposed half of a ice H2O with cold vodka in a cake dough.
(LAUGHTER)
FLATOW: Do we need a high code vodka, first-shelf vodka, or…?
BISHOP: You’re not going to ambience it since what happens is in a oven, when you’re baking a cake crust, a alcohol’s going to ready off. We tested whiskey, rum, tequila…
FLATOW: What a celebration that was testing…
BISHOP: Oh yeah, and we have – we were contrast them, unfortunately, in a cake dough.
FLATOW: we see.
BISHOP: You can’t ambience a difference, really, between all of them. The critical thing is to use something that’s 80 proof, that’s 40 percent alcohol, so that we are in effect, where a recipe calls for 4 tablespoons of H2O and 4 tablespoons of vodka, yet since of a ethanol in a vodka, it’s unequivocally a homogeneous of 6 tablespoons of water, even yet we get a arrange of rollability of 8 tablespoons of water.
And it seems like it’s a unequivocally tiny trick, yet it creates it so many easier to hurl out a cake dough, and it’s unequivocally flaky, and it’s unequivocally tender.
FLATOW: So does this come about from indeed contrast things in a Test Kitchen, a ideas and recipes?
BISHOP: The Test Kitchen has about 25 people who work full-time who are lerned cooks. We also have a scholarship editor. And so this was one of those questions that we discussed with a scholarship editor. We said: What’s soppy that we could supplement to cake mix that’s not going to form gluten? And he said, well, alcohol. And, we know, afterwards we went into a kitchen and ran a array of tests.
Our common protocols will do arrange of one non-static test. And so, we know, we’ll do a customary recipe with water, and afterwards we’ll do variations, in this box with vodka, and easy to tell a difference.
FLATOW: So people who have picked adult their ears now from conference this, what’s a recipe, how many vodka for how many water?
BISHOP: So we wish to use half-water and half-vodka. If we have a favorite cake mix recipe that calls for ice water, usually reinstate half of a H2O with cold vodka. It’s unequivocally critical that a H2O is cold so it doesn’t warp any of a fat in a dough.
FLATOW: Wow, articulate with Jack Bishop, ready and expel member on a cooking uncover “America’s Test Kitchen” and “Cook’s Country,” also writer to Cook’s Illustrated “The Science of Good Cooking: Master 50 Simple Concepts to Enjoy a Lifetime of Success in a Kitchen.” A good book. Why did we confirm – did we confirm that people indispensable to know some-more about scholarship in a kitchen?
BISHOP: We unequivocally feel like scholarship is a pivotal for many people to finally spin a good cook. You know, we consider there’s a arrange of generational emanate that many people didn’t grow adult in homes where they could watch cooking. And so how do we learn how to cook? And a lot of people get undone since they make mistakes and consider oh, we shouldn’t be creation mistakes. Well…
(SOUNDBITE OF TIMER)
FLATOW: You’d better…
BISHOP: We’re a worker to a timer here.
(LAUGHTER)
BISHOP: So that means a poached eggs, you’re going to have to wait for my answer on this one.
FLATOW: OK.
BISHOP: So I’m going to take a lid off of a skillet.
FLATOW: Right. Ooh, those are gorgeous.
BISHOP: I’m going to now strech in with a slotted ladle to try to take out any of a 4 poached eggs. I’m going to send them to paper-towel-lined plates. The paper towel is going to soak adult a additional H2O that is still on them. The slotted ladle is removing absolved of many of a water, yet there’s still some in there.
And as we can see, they came out sincerely nice.
FLATOW: Thank you, that’s great, unequivocally tiny white left in a water.
BISHOP: Very tiny white. we consider we competence wish to during this indicate deteriorate them with a tiny bit of pepper, make them ambience a tiny bit. And we think, Ira, we have to do – we have a honors.
FLATOW: Somebody has to take over a uncover while we eat here.
BISHOP: You during slightest have to arrange of moment and see…
FLATOW: All right, moment one open. This looks good since poached eggs are among my favorite food. we need a tiny English muffin here, we think.
BISHOP: Yeah, we didn’t move a Canadian bacon and English muffin. Now 5 mins gives we a runny yolk.
FLATOW: That is good. OK (unintelligible)…
(LAUGHTER)
FLATOW: A runny yolk, do if we scorch it, it’s going to get a tiny harder, and 5 mins works. But a secret, as we said, is not prohibited a H2O yet simmering it…
BISHOP: And a 5 notation works either you’re doing one egg or eight. If you’re going to do some-more than eight, we competence wish to go to 6 or 7 mins since there are so many eggs in a water. And of march if we wish a some-more set yolk, we could go an additional minute. But for a arrange of runny yolk, 5 mins is arrange of guaranteed to work.
FLATOW: And eggs are a good place to start if we wish to learn about a scholarship of cooking, right? There are so many things we can do with eggs.
BISHOP: It’s – we know, they don’t call it a implausible egg for zero since we unequivocally can do so many things, not usually opposite cooking methods. You can, we know, hasten it, we can grill it, we can ready it, yet it’s a pivotal part in so many delicious and baked goods.
FLATOW: If you’re creation scrambled eggs, or you’re creation usually plain sunny-side-ups, is there a ideal feverishness that we want? People pitch it in, we know, they feverishness a skillet adult unequivocally hot, and afterwards they pitch a egg in, and it’s sizzling. Does that mutilate a egg, or do we wish to ready it on a reduce temperature?
BISHOP: For scrambled eggs, a pivotal is sincerely high feverishness since what you’re perplexing to do is modify a H2O that’s in a eggs – and we also supplement some half-and-half to a scrambled eggs.
FLATOW: Oh, we do?
BISHOP: Yeah, a fat keeps them tender, and a additional dampness creates steam, that is what creates them feathery and light. And so if you’re regulating low feverishness for scrambled eggs, if we wish unequivocally fluffy, light eggs, you’re not generating adequate steam. So we wish sincerely high temperature, and we have to work unequivocally fast since we don’t wish them to get tough or brown.
For boiled egg, we indeed feverishness a vessel over low for 10 minutes, perplexing to get a unequivocally even heat, afterwards holder it adult so there’s no prohibited spots, and supplement a boiled egg.
FLATOW: Should we use a smaller pan, like an omelet pan, for one or dual eggs, or should we use a bigger pan?
BISHOP: A tiny vessel is many better, yeah.
FLATOW: A tiny pan, and that will take – an omelet pan, that is a lot thicker metal, will take a longer time to feverishness adult during that reduce temperature.
BISHOP: And it will be a many improved job.
FLATOW: OK, a integrate of egg lessons. What’s a biggest mistake people make with eggs? Is it they use a wrong temperature, or they usually don’t provide it with respect?
BISHOP: Yeah, that they don’t supplement adequate fat, usually. In many egg recipes, what you’re doing is you’re coagulating a proteins. And, we know, there a bent is to afterwards fist out a moisture. And if we supplement a tiny bit of fat, either it’s a tiny half-and-half in your scrambled eggs – when we make an omelet, we supplement tiny cubes of solidified butter to a scrambled – we know, to a eggs that we’ve arrange of beaten by palm so that there’s a tiny bit of fat in there to safeguard a arrange of good soothing set that doesn’t fist out a dampness in a eggs and make them tough.
FLATOW: Cubes of solidified butter in a omelet. we have to remember that since we adore to make omelets. We’re articulate with Jack Bishop about Cook’s Illustrated “The Science of Good Cooking,” a series 1-800-989-8255. When we come back, we’re going to speak about another secret, and that is how to flint adult some egg whites. There’s a right approach to do it and a wrong approach to do it. we theory it’ll be a meringue arrange of thing.
And if we wish to make – go along with us, call us during 1-800-989-8255. We’re on a website during sciencefriday.com. We’ll be right behind after this mangle with Jack Bishop. Stay with us.
(SOUNDBITE OF MUSIC)
FLATOW: I’m Ira Flatow; this is SCIENCE FRIDAY from NPR.
(SOUNDBITE OF MUSIC)
FLATOW: This is SCIENCE FRIDAY. I’m Ira Flatow. We’re articulate this hour about a scholarship of good cooking. My guest is Jack Bishop, ready and editorial executive during America’s Test Kitchen and writer to “The Science of Good Cooking: Cook’s Illustrated: Master 50 Simple Concepts to Enjoy a Lifetime of Success in a Kitchen.”
If we need a simple kitchen book, this is it, we know, how do we do this, how do we do that, and we wish to have simple recipes and a right approach to do it, boy, this is a good book. There are a lot of good tips in a book. And we wish to dive into one in particular, that is a box for brining meat. What is brining meat?
BISHOP: So brining beef is a resolution to overcooked gaunt protein. So we’re articulate about a white beef in duck or turkey, gaunt cuts of pig like a pig loin or pig tenderloin. There’s unequivocally tiny fat, and it can unequivocally dry out and be bleached and tough. We’ve all had a terrible Thanksgiving turkey.
FLATOW: Yes.
BISHOP: The resolution subsequent year is to brine a turkey, and we are putting a protein in a bucket with a resolution of salt and water. And what is function is that a salt is changing a structure of a flesh fibers and formulating spaces that can afterwards trap a healthy juices in meat.
Most beef is 75 percent water, and a idea is to safety that healthy moisture, and by changing a figure of a proteins, indeed a sodium and chloride ions have disastrous and certain charges, and they’re changing a approach a mosaic of charges on a proteins are working, and we are removing some-more H2O to be hold into a meat, a possess healthy juices, in serve to apparently some of a H2O that’s in a brine creates a approach into a meat.
And fundamentally we found in corresponding tests we can cut dampness detriment by 25 percent, that is a really…
FLATOW: Doesn’t it ambience salty, a meat, when we take it out?
BISHOP: You don’t wish to deteriorate it too much. The normal volume of salt, if we brine it, is going to be about an eighth of a teaspoon per serving. So it’s about a same if we buy a kosher duck or if we buy a Butterball, that has been injected with salt. You wouldn’t brine those since they already have about that spin of salt in them.
FLATOW: Yeah, when they kosher a turkey, they already put a salt and whatever in there, that arrange of thing, koshering it. 1-800-989-8255. A twitter came in that says: How do we tough boil an egg so that it peels easily? What’s a tip to that?
BISHOP: Well, a tip to tough prohibited an egg is many like poaching, that is to use residual heat. So we move a eggs in a H2O to a boil, spin it off, take it off a burner, and it’s accurately 10 mins since afterwards it…
FLATOW: Exactly.
BISHOP: Exactly 10 minutes, and afterwards dull out a H2O and afterwards moment a eggs in a dull pot and arrange of, we know, mangle adult a shells. And afterwards put them in ice water. The ice H2O will cold them down so that they won’t continue to cook, and we won’t get that immature ring, and a H2O gets underneath a burst bombard and creates it many easier to afterwards flay off a bombard if we put them in an ice H2O bath for 30 seconds to 60 seconds.
FLATOW: All right, we have another smashing in-studio proof that we’re going to speak about, what’s a right approach to – or what have we got here? I’ll let we explain it.
BISHOP: we have dual matching bowls, dual matching whisks. Inside any play are 3 egg whites. Now churned egg whites are a tip to all from soufflés to cakes. We are going to both take a play and start whisking and see who can make improved progress.
(SOUNDBITE OF WHISKING)
BISHOP: Now we know you’re going to say…
FLATOW: we used to be good during this, yet this is not working.
(LAUGHTER)
BISHOP: Well, so what we’re doing is we’re formulating a froth here, and as we can see in my bowl, Ira, I’m already…
FLATOW: we got nothing.
(LAUGHTER)
BISHOP: Yeah, we got nothing. we indeed kind of did something not unequivocally good to your bowl: we sprayed it with a tiny bit of Pam cooking spray, and…
FLATOW: You unwashed rat.
(LAUGHTER)
BISHOP: The fat is – a indicate here is that if we get even a teeny bit of fat, and that can be leftover douse from not soaking a play unequivocally good to a fat from a yolk, it will forestall those whites from defeat properly, and we unequivocally can’t get a fast foam.
FLATOW: No, we was unequivocally astounded since I’m flattering good during creation a meringue arrange of thing, or if we make an omelet, we make a egg yolks apart than a whites and afterwards put them behind together – nothing.
BISHOP: Nothing, and so, we know, it’s a unequivocally ethereal operation. You are taking, we know, a integrate tablespoons of glass whites and a lot of arrange of horsepower in your arm and branch this into a fast foam. And if there’s a tiny bit of fat in there, it will means a froth to fall or unequivocally even usually forestall a froth from forming.
FLATOW: So we wish to make certain that it’s a unequivocally purify bowl, and, we know, we haven’t put butter or something in it beforehand.
BISHOP: And never use plastic. It’s roughly unfit to get a cosmetic play unequivocally clean. There’s always traces of fat in plastic. So we had immaculate steel bowls here. Glass is fine. But equivocate cosmetic since it usually doesn’t unequivocally get as purify as it should.
FLATOW: What about a feverishness of a bowl, or, we mean, I’ve listened people contend we need to have a cold bowl, or a yolks, a whites should be cold. What’s with that?
BISHOP: It is many easier to apart a yolks when they’re cold since a yolks are many firmer and taut, and a eggs will not separate. So apart a eggs right from a refrigerator. In terms of a whipping, either those whites are during room feverishness or cold isn’t going to make many disproportion in a ability to emanate a foam.
FLATOW: All right, I’m going to go to a phones and take one call here, see if we can get a phone call in. Let’s go to Jeff(ph) in Pittsburgh. Hi Jeff.
JEFF: Hi Ira, how are you?
FLATOW: Hi, how are you?
JEFF: I’m well, appreciate you.
FLATOW: Go ahead.
JEFF: we have a doubt about pizza dough. I’m anticipating that maybe a vodka resolution competence work for it. My pizza mix always turns out complicated like a lead brick, and I’m not certain if it’s since I’m overworking a mix or not vouchsafing it lay prolonged enough. Is there any possibility that a vodka competence tenderize it or assistance it rise?
FLATOW: Should we put vodka in your pizza mix also, besides your…?
BISHOP: No, if we splash a vodka, it competence make a pizza mix ambience better…
(LAUGHTER)
BISHOP: But a vodka is not going to urge pizza dough. Two things is to make certain that we have adequate water. If we don’t have adequate water, a mix won’t arise properly. The second thing is to try vouchsafing arise in a refrigerator. We find that a lot of bread doughs do many better, we know, underneath conditions called cold fermentation, and unequivocally let it go even overnight.
You know, make a mix before we go to bed, or make it initial thing in a morning, and afterwards by it in a fridge and let it usually arise gently. You mostly get a many improved result. You get arrange of some-more bubbly pizza mix crust. So give those dual things a try: a tiny some-more H2O and let it arise in a refrigerator.
FLATOW: Are there any new techniques formed on science? I’ve listened people regulating vacuuming, they vacuum-pack a food before they ready it.
BISHOP: Yeah, we meant it’s a unequivocally engaging time in food since in a universe of veteran cooking, in restaurants, there’s so many scholarship and technology. we mean, molecular gastronomy is unequivocally changing a approach that a lot of chefs ready dishes in restaurants.
At home, a record is kind of a same aged technology. You know, a x-ray arrange of came and went, and people use a x-ray to, we know, comfortable coffee, yet they don’t unequivocally ready in a microwave. And so a record – even though, we know, we spend a lot some-more on a apparatus than we used to in a kitchen, it unequivocally is fundamentally a same apparatus with nicer finishes.
FLATOW: Let’s speak a tiny bit about a opposite form of cooking oils. There’s so many opposite ones. What’s a scholarship behind that form of oils to use for what purposes?
BISHOP: So a initial thing we wish to consider about is are we going to be heating a oil, and if you’re heating a oil, afterwards a fume indicate is hugely important. And in that case, we wish an oil with a high fume indicate since once a oil starts smoking, it’s a pointer that it’s violation down and degrading. And so olive oil, for instance, has good flavor, yet since it’s not entirely refined, it has a sincerely low fume point. It’s not unequivocally good for frying or sautéing.
Vegetable oil, soybean oil, corn oil, canola oil, those can withstand some-more heat, and…
FLATOW: But all of Italian cookery is formed on regulating olive oil, isn’t it?
BISHOP: As prolonged – we meant yes, many of that olive oil – we mean, my Italian grandmother would sauté in it, yet she was regulating polished olive oil. And so, we know, if you’ve got a unequivocally high-end additional pure oil that’s got particulate matter in it, we don’t wish to be frying in it since that means it’s going to fume during a many reduce temperature.
FLATOW: So we use a worse class of oil to grill in?
BISHOP: Well, if you’re going to be cooking, yes. You know, for salad, we wouldn’t use anything other than unequivocally good additional pure olive oil. But for cooking, we use a lot of unfeeling oil in a exam kitchen.
FLATOW: Peanut oil? Peanut oil is good?
BISHOP: Peanut oil has a good high fume temperature. It has a arrange of good deteriorate that it can add. Most of a flavors are unequivocally subtle, so a disproportion between corn and safflower and sunflower and canola are unequivocally unequivocally minor. The one thing is we don’t like to grill in canola oil. We find that it gets a tiny unlikely tasting, actually, when it’s exhilarated for unequivocally prolonged durations of time when you’re frying. So we don’t grill in canola oil.
FLATOW: Is there one oil healthier, a unsaturated oils, that’s…?
BISHOP: we mean, olive oil is substantially – we know, and a canola oil get a best outlines from a nutritionists. You know, we consider we like olive oil solely for super-high-heat applications.
FLATOW: Let’s speak about America’s favorite food, a hamburger. we mean, we saw some tips of America’s Test Kitchen questioning a best approach to make a hamburger.
BISHOP: Yeah, a biggest problem with hamburger is indeed a meat. And so, we know, what we buy in a supermarket, there are dual problems. One is we don’t indeed know what cut of beef it comes from, and so if we – we ideally wish something with a satisfactory volume of fat, from a chuck, brief ribs make a super burger.
The second thing is a approach it’s finished in that shrink-wrapping creates it roughly unfit to get anything other than a unenlightened hockey puck.
And so we indeed grub a possess beef. You customarily need a food processor. You solidify a meat, and afterwards we can grub it in a food processor, and it creates a many tastier burger, some-more fat, and it’s got a lighter texture, and it’s not that unenlightened complicated hockey puck that we get from supermarket belligerent beef.
FLATOW: Yeah. It’s like a aged days.
BISHOP: It’s like a aged days.
FLATOW: Going to a butcher, bringing a beef home, harsh it up.
BISHOP: Yeah. And there’s nobody harsh beef in any supermarkets in America anymore.
FLATOW: They’re all entrance in with a beef belligerent already, yeah.
BISHOP: Yeah, it’s been grounded in plants in a Midwest and afterwards shipped all over a country, and that’s unequivocally a problem.
FLATOW: we consider I’ve seen that commercial. We’re going to – we wish to move on another guest to speak about how a eating habits have altered with a invention of a flare and what’s a singular biggest feat in cooking technology. Jack, we can have a seat.
(LAUGHTER)
FLATOW: Sit down. Make yourself during home since we wish you’ll hang around for a few some-more mins with us.
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Source: Health Medicine Network