Which shampoo works the best to defeat dandruff?

How much do you need to spend on shampoo? 

Last week, Dr Laura Waters, a chemist from the University of Huddersfield, found that the hair of women who spent £40 on a top brand was no cleaner than the hair of those who paid £1 for a supermarket one.

Her conclusion was that if you just want clean hair, ‘then price doesn’t matter’.

But what if your issue is dandruff or sensitive skin around the scalp?

Last week a chemist from the University of Huddersfield found the hair of women who spent £40 on a top brand was no cleaner than the hair of those who paid £1 for a supermarket one
Last week a chemist from the University of Huddersfield found the hair of women who spent £40 on a top brand was no cleaner than the hair of those who paid £1 for a supermarket one

Last week a chemist from the University of Huddersfield found the hair of women who spent £40 on a top brand was no cleaner than the hair of those who paid £1 for a supermarket one

We asked Dr Anton Alexandroff, a consultant dermatologist at the Leicester Spire and Nuffield Health hospitals, and Iain Sallis, a consultant trichologist at Hairmedic trichology clinics, to assess health claims about various shampoos and rate them out of ten.

HEAD SHOULDERS

Clinically Proven Solutions anti-dandruff shampoo, £5.33 for 250 ml, Boots

The claim: This shampoo is designed to fight stubborn dandruff and provide seven-day protection.

VERDICT: 

‘Half of cases of dandruff — flakes of skin shedding from the scalp — are caused by seborrhoeic dermatitis, a form of eczema linked to an overgrowth of yeast,’ says Dr Alexandroff. 

(The other half are caused by psoriasis, where an overproduction of skin cells leads to a build-up of itchy, sore patches.)


‘The active ingredient is selenium sulphide — a chemical that helps clear away the yeast that causes seborrhoeic dermatitis.

‘I’m not sure about the seven-day protection, but using it every day for a week should treat the issue.

‘However it contains the detergent sodium lauryl sulphate, which can cause dermatitis, as well as the preservative methylisothiazolinone, which can trigger an allergic reaction. So, it could address one skin condition but spark another.’ 

6/10

NILAQUA

Towel off shampoo, £9.95 for 500 ml, purpleturtle.co.uk

The claim: This product cleans hair without water or rinsing, say the manufacturers. Comprised of water and a small amount of detergent, it is applied to dry hair, massaged in and towelled off.


VERDICT: 

‘This is for people such as the elderly who may find it difficult to wash their hair,’ says Iain Sallis. 

‘It does clean hair, but by solely using a product like this, the microbial content of the scalp may increase and cause itching and flaking.’

2/10 if used all the time (but 10/10 if used occasionally)

T/GEL

Therapeutic shampoo, £6.99 for 250 ml, amazon.co.uk

The claim: A medicated shampoo aimed at treating itchy, flaky scalp disorders such as psoriasis and seborrhoeic dermatitis.


VERDICT: 

‘The active ingredient is coal tar,’ says Dr Alexandroff. 

‘This thick brown substance, which has long been used as a treatment for psoriasis, works by reducing inflammation and itching.

‘The shampoo contains salicylic acid, which helps remove scales of skin. 

‘It’s only a small concentration, so won’t cause irritation, as larger amounts might. 

‘Anecdotally, I have seen many patients who have been happy with the results. But it smells terrible.’

7/10

KLORANE

Shampoo with quinine and B vitamins, £6 for 200 ml, Boots

The claim: This aims to fortify thinning hair by strengthening keratin (a protein in hair). 

The manufacturer also claims that it encourages micro-circulation — the circulation in small blood vessels — of the scalp, stimulating hair growth.


VERDICT: 

‘Vitamins can’t be absorbed through the hair as it is a dead material,’ says Iain Sallis.

‘Quinine, which comes from tree bark and is a former malaria medication, may make hair temporarily feel thicker, by plumping it up, but it won’t stop it from thinning. 

‘And I don’t see how this can improve circulation of the scalp.’ 

3/10

NIROZAL

Anti-dandruff shampoo, £9.19 for 100 ml, Superdrug

The claim: Treats and prevents dandruff and associated inflammation.


VERDICT: 

‘This shampoo contains ketoconazole, an anti-fungal agent that kills the yeast associated with seborrhoeic dermatitis,’ says Dr Alexandroff. 

‘It tends to be more effective than the selenium compounds that are found in other dandruff shampoos. 

‘You might need to use it every day for a week to see a real difference, but it is an excellent product.’ 

9/10

SELSUN

Dandruff shampoo, £3.99 for 100 ml, chemistdirect.co.uk

The claim: A medicated shampoo for treating dandruff and seborrhoeic dermatitis.

Reduces greasiness and slows down the growth of the skin cells on the scalp that cause dandruff.


VERDICT: 

‘This shampoo — which contains selenium sulphide — has been around for many years and I’ve known many patients who have used it effectively,’ says Dr Alexandroff. 

‘However, all shampoos remove oil and grease, not just this one — the greasier the scalp, the more likely yeast will grow. 

‘But it’s easily as good as the Head Shoulders product assessed here. 7/10

ALPECIN

Caffeine shampoo, £5.55 for 250 ml, Boots

The claim: Caffeine promotes hair growth and has been proven to slow down hereditary hair loss, according to the manufacturers.


VERDICT: 

‘A few scientific papers have found that when caffeine was used on hair, the growth phase (the time when an individual hair is growing before eventually being shed) lasted between 8 per cent and 15 per cent longer,’ says Iain Sallis. 

‘But other research also found too much caffeine can reverse this effect. 

‘And that longer growing phase probably won’t make a huge difference if you are suffering from hair loss. It may help rather than cure thinning hair.’

6/10

EUCERIN

Calming urea shampoo, £10.99 for 250 ml, Superdrug

The claim: This product soothes and reduces itchiness of the scalp and moisture loss.


VERDICT: 

‘This contains urea, which is an anti-inflammatory that can also moisturise the skin,’ says Dr Alexandroff. 

‘It’s not strong so can be used as often as needed. Overall it is effective for treating an itchy or dry scalp.

‘It’s claimed that this seals in moisture, but inevitably when you rinse the scalp, most of the shampoo washes off.

‘However, some of the urea could remain and so help to moisturise the scalp.’ 

7/10

NIOXIN

System 2 cleanser for fine/ thinning hair, £12.97 for 300 ml, gorgeousshop.com

The claim: This removes hair product build-up and daily grime, which allows nutrients, including B vitamins to penetrate the scalp.


VERDICT: 

‘This shampoo is good for any type of fine hair, thinning or not, as it is an effective volumising product,’ says Iain Sallis.

‘Its high protein content builds around the hair like a small scaffold and also — temporarily — swells the hair shaft, making hair look thicker and feel fuller. 

‘Results are instantaneous as it plumps up volume as soon as you use it.’ 

8/10

YES TO CARROTS

Dry scalp relief shampoo, £3.99 for 280 ml, Boots

The claim: This will soothe dry and flaky scalps in eight days, say the manufacturers. 

It contains kukui tree seed oil (from a flowering tree which grows in Hawaii) and carrot seed oil.


VERDICT: 

‘I couldn’t find any medical literature to support claims for the effectiveness of carrot seed oil on dry or flaky scalps,’ says Dr Alexandroff. 

‘Kukui tree seed oil, however, is a well-known mild antiseptic, so it could calm redness or itchiness.

‘But any oil will soothe a dry and flaky scalp. For an itchy head you could apply olive oil, leave for a few minutes and rinse.’ 

3/10

BOOTS EXPERT

Dry itchy sensitive shampoo, £3.49 for 200 ml, Boots

The claim: It contains glycerine and aloe vera to leave hair feeling soft and moisturised while caring for the scalp.


VERDICT: 

‘This product is for scalps that may be too sensitised to stronger medicated shampoo with ingredients such as coal tar,’ says Iain Sallis.

‘The glycerine draws in moisture from the atmosphere and keeps it in the scalp (a dehydrated scalp can become itchy very easily).

‘Aloe vera is used extensively in cosmetics for its natural moisturising and anti-microbial properties. 

‘Overall, this sensitive shampoo is a great half-way house for people who suffer from mild or seasonal scalp issues.’ 

8/10